Thursday, January 29, 2009

Girl With Big Honkin' Skirt

The couture collections have started!

The first one I looked at, of course, was John Galliano for Dior.
Truth be told, while I love Dior in theory (and in execution), they aren't the clothes I most want to wear. My personal taste in clothes runs more to the minimalist and modernist -- designers like Raf Simons for Jil Sander, or Consuela Castiglione for Marni. I'm not strictly a modernist, but even when I'm going for things more elaborate it's more likely to be something like the luxe futurism of Stefano Pilati at YSL or the cerebrations of my hero Miuccia Prada. Dior tends to be a lot girlier than what I usually hang in my own closet.

But.


I thank the fashion gods for John Galliano.

Just because I don't wear it doesn't mean I don't appreciate it. John Galliano is a fantastical creature, a man so in touch with his own imagination that sometimes his work has no apparent connection to the realities of the world around him. Some folks think that's a bad thing. I do not. I say, thank heaven for the fantasists -- they remind us that anything is possible and that to get stuck in only one idea of what is beautiful is the death of imagination.


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Yowza. Galliano's inspiration for this collection was Flemish painters like
Van Dyck and Vermeer, and, as always, Monsieur Dior himself.



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I just love this photo. I love that riot of color and pattern and the profusion of fabric. Over the top, oh yeah. Love it.

This is Vermeer's painting "The Lacemaker."

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The Dutch painters of the 17th century like Vermeer and Rembrandt were famous for their mastery of light and color.

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I adore this yellow. It's wonderful.

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Bear in mind, this is couture. These are not garments that will be mass-produced -- they are made-to-order creations. And that being the case, the other purpose Galliano's mad flights of fancy serves is to keep alive the traditions of haute couture -- the embroidery, the hand-stitching, the beading, the fabric treatments. There is an ever-shrinking number of skilled artisans in these crafts and arts, and couture collections like Dior's help keep those skills alive.


I do not know what intrepid couture client might commission this little number, but I applaud whomever does.


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Yowza, encore.


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How much would I love to see
this on the Oscars red carpet??

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C'mon, Cameron! Throw a fashion blogger a bone!

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This just blows me out of the water.


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That is absolutely stunning. I've never been a fan of Delftware china, but it turns out I really, really like it on clothes.

Much as I loved the colors, Galliano did a big chunk of the collection in white, and that was a lot of my favorite things.


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(I am so dying to get my hands on that quilted fabric so that I could see what it feels like.)


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Also, I really, really love the hat.



But of course, a fashionista cannot live on white alone...

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Mmmmm, come to Mama.


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Oh, that's dreamy. Actually, that could make an appearance on a red carpet, and it'd be gorgeous. Someone get me Cate Blanchett!

Speaking of gorgeous...

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Good googly-moogly.

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No idea if these will ever make it into production, or if they do if I'd be able to get my hands on any, or if I could track them down I could afford them without resorting to some sort of criminal behavior, or if I managed to find and buy them I'd be able to bring myself to wear them outside of my home where they would be be sullied by coming into contact with the dirtydirty ground, BUT -- dayum. THOSE? Are some hoof-covers to die for.


More couture coming soon!


Photos: style.com, artchive.com







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11 comments:

Claudia said...

I do not know when I have last seen such gorgeous clothes. I totally agree with you on that red dress - surely SOMEONE has got cate blanchett on speed dial? That is one awesome dress.

Deja Pseu said...

Galliano rarely disappoints. To me, these are high art in clothing form. Bravo!!!

Jen said...

Gorgeous stuff! I just want to pet the luscious silks, pleats, quilting, and ruffles.

The delftware dress looks just like the painted tiles of the period.
http://www.pavetile.com/collectionsdelftcrackled/collectiondelfthp_css.html
Makes the historian and fashionophile in me swoon.

r sorrell said...

What a beautiful collection! Some of those dresses remind me of fancy cupcakes... and I LOVE the hats.

dana said...

I will never again read fashion commentary from anyone but you, Style. You get the awards looks (gofug is funny, but too conservative), your coverage is complete on events like the inaug., and as for couture...no one edits these better!!!!

Robo said...

Everything is so gorgeous! I'd love to see a ready to wear interpretation of the couture. There were some Prada heels that had a similar feel on the heels with the curly-ques.

Belle de Ville said...

Galliano is the ultimate artist of couture. This collection is specatacular...but all of his collecions similarly witty.
And thank you for writing about the artisanship of couture. Thank god there are a few designers keeping these specific skills alive.

benvenuta said...

Ooooh! Gorgeous, gorgeous,gorgeous.
That is all.

Toby Wollin said...

I'm still trying to figure out if Galliano (forget it - the man is a genius, period; no one can make stuff like this)is wiring the bottoms of those skirts in order to produce that highly controlled ripple. It's just mesmerizing, isn't it. But the use of color and pattern is really inspiring - that first gown with the multiple patterns is just luscious and would be so much more interesting in terms of eveningwear than the standard one color column dress.

StyleSpy said...

Claudia -- I seem to have lost her number...

Deja -- Yep. Art.

Jen -- I know -- it's uncanny how accurate it is!

r-- Mmmmmmmmm, hats. Big feathered hats.

Dana -- I'm blushing! Thank you so much!

StyleSpy said...

Robo -- yep, I'm excited to see what the ready-to-wear is like. Feeling hopeful that the colors and the great nipped-in bodices trickle down.

BdV -- I die a little every time someone talks about the demise of couture. It's like the idea of the demise of painting, or printmaking to me.

benvenuta -- Agreed!

Toby -- Could be wiring, or something like buckram. I'd love nothing more than to get my hands on one of these garments to examine the workmanship.